Train Travel

From the Great Lakes to the West Coast on the Canadian Pacific.

Following in the footsteps of explorers, settlers and writers we arrived at Toronto's Union Station to catch my train across country. Walking among the huge buildings overseen by the lofty CNN tower it was hard to imagine how those first travellers must have felt. Our trip was planned to be a luxurous cruise. Theirs must have been a journey into unknown lands peopled by possibly hostile inhabitants and unpredictable elements.

The first shock was the train. A thirty carriage monster, so long it had to be split between two platforms. At it's head no less than three huge diesel locomotives. The carriages were a step back in time to a grander age. No modern utility transport for us. These were refurbished 1950s rolling stock. A huge caravan of silver and blue with fully glazed observation cars.

Glancing at our tickets the guard directed us to our carriage near the rear of the train where we found our well appointed sleeping cabin. Two fold out beds and an en-suite WC were complimented by two comfortable armchairs that we could use to watch the world pass by the window. The next carriage along was the dining car so not too far to walk for meals! The restaurant was tastefully decorated in pastel shades of green and peuce interspersed with chrome fittings. This was indeed luxury. To help the time pass we also had the Observation car, a bar and an entertainment room where the company put on such distractions as wine tastings and movies. For those travelling on a budget the carriages nearer the front were fitted with rows of reclining seats and overhead racks for well stuffed backpacks. The rail company descibes this as the 'comfort class' although how well it meets that description after 2000 or more miles remains to be seen.

With a double blast from the airhorns the train rolls out of the station. Passing the suburbs of Toronto leaving behind the hustle and bustle of the city and heading for the wide open spaces. Sooner than we expected the buildings gave way to a land of green pastures and blue skies. This is a land hewn from the wild by the early settlers. The land is fertile and well farmed by it's modern inhabitants. The hum of the rails accompaning the vista scrolling by the window. Small villages with white houses and wooden churches, farms with large barns and grain towers, the occasional car on a winding road. All of these break to panorama up, each suggesting a story that might be told as we travel.

As the time passes the landscape changes. As lunchtime approaches the view has metamorphosed into a wilder aspect. Huge forests and fast flowing rivers give us an idea of what the first settlers might have seen as they trudged behind their wagons on the route West. Nine hours into the journey and we have to stop. The locomotives need fuel and staff need to change shifts. The train pulls gently into Capreol. A town so small it almost seems as if the train pokes out at each end. Time to stretch our legs and do a little exploring. A town built from the local materials it's main attraction is Main Street with it's shops and the occasional bar. However we can't stray too far as the train is quickly replenished and we hurry back to continue on our way. A little later and the staf come round to transform our cabin into a bedroom and we lie in bed allowing the rocking of the car and the rumble of the wheels help us to sleep.

Despite the speed of the train we seem to be just crawling across this huge country. We cross from Ontario and into Saskatchewan and the Canadian mid-west spreads out all around us. It seems as if we can see to the edge of the Earth as we glide along. The land is the same as far as the eye can see. Occasionally on a bend we can get a glimpse ahead and can see the tops of the Rocky mountains, their snow topped peaks glinting in the sunlight. However they seem not to be getting any closer. Just when we were beginning to tire of the prairie the view changes. The land becomes more undulating as we begin to feel the rise of the mountain chain. The track dives into the trees and you feel the engines start to strain a little with the incline.

The town of Jasper provides a brief respite and an opportunity to get a small taste of how it used to be. Adjacent to the station stands one of the original steam locomotives that opened up this land. A huge iron monster straight from a cowboy movie with it's huge lantern and cow catcher at the front and well polished brass bell on top of the boiler. Close your eyes and imagine this wood burning monster belching black smoke hauling lines of carriages across the mountains.

Time passes swiftly and everyone re-embarks for the final stage of the trek. The train continues to climb using the contours of the land to curve it's way onwards and upwards. It is hard to imagine the hardship that was endured by the people that built this line in such hostile terrain. We spend our third and final night crossing the peaks of the Rockies and sweeping down the Fraser River valley. Over breakfast we watch the now peaceful and wide river flow along beside us finally spilling out into the estuary. In the distance we can see the modern skyline of Vancouver waiting to greet us after our epic journey.

Flights are available from many airlines for more information on up to date prices/schedules contact them direct. British Airways can be contacted by telephone on: 0870 9850850 or online at: www.ba.com.

Where to stay.

There are many hotels to choose from . Two examples are the Fairmont Royal York in Toronto, contact them for exact prices online at: www.fairmont.com/royalyork or by telephone on: 001 416 3682511and The Opus Hotel in Vancouver, contactable online at: www.opushorel.com or by telephone on: 001 604 6426787.

For more information about prices and timetables of the Canadian visit www.viarail.ca/canadian.