Train Travel

Taking the slow train.

The Darjeeling Himalayan Railway is a 2ft guage. Narrow tracks that climb, turn and twist as they make their way up the hills to Darjeeling. It's nickname is the toy train because even its carriages are small and for larger travellers it can be a squeeze to fit in comfortably. The steam train was built in the early nineteenth century and has survived into the twenty first. Recently it received Unesco World Heritage status which should ensure it continues to operate for years to come.

The railway built by the Darjeeling Steam Tramway Company in 1879-81 was to improve links between the developing tea plantations in Darjeeling and those trying to escape the heat of Calcutta. The railway itself is a lasting example of British engineering skills.

The engineers came up with a unique solution to allow the train to climb 7,000ft in just 50 miles so as to avoid the expensive task of tunnelling. For travellers opting for this journey today it is a once in a lifetime experience. Where the hill is to narrow for the track to bend then the train goes into the sidings, a man alters the switchback and then the train reverses up the next part of the track. There are several of these stops on the journey which allows passengers to jump off and take photographs. The train travels so slowly even those not quick enough to jump back on can catch up with the train within minutes.

Another idea of the engineers was for the train to travel in a 360 degree loop around the hill before it begins its next climb. Due to the small guage and the slow speed the bends on the track are very tight, this gives passengers the chance to look out of the window at a sheer drop of several hundred metres.

All the engines are painted blue and seem to be alive because as they climb up the hills several people are visible balancing on parts of it. There is the driver, the fireman and two sanders who sprinkle sand on parts of the worn track so the wheels can get traction, these men sit on the train buffers. Then there is the man who jumps on and off to operate the switchbacks and the coal wallah, who sits on top of the coal and breaks it into pieces to hand to the fireman to keep the fire going. Even with all these people helping it to go the train only manages a maximum of 15 miles per hour.

Todays passengers are told not to worry about accidents on the track as they are very rare. Trains cannot travel through a red light because there are none. In fact there are no forms of signalling at all. Trains meet where the track doubles, for a short distance, at prearranged points.

The track has undergone remodelling over the years with some of the reversing points being resited or replaced. This has happened because of the monsoons washing away the tracks or parts of the hills.

Passengers have time to note the changes in the scenery and environment as the train moves slowly from the plains into the hills.

The train journey starts at New Jalpaiguri which is adjacent to the main line station. Within an hour of leaving New Jalpaiguri the train reaches Sukna. Here it leaves the scorching plains behind and commences its climb into the hills, The train is now surrounded by a forest which brings some relief after the heat of the plains. At Tindharia, which is 3,000ft above sea level, the train comes to the edge of the forest and passengers begin to see the spectacular views.

A mile further a long the line, the train passes through the most significant town on the track, Kurseong. The market stalls are so close to the line and add colour to the barren landscape. Dotted across views are Buddhist moasteries and schools. At Ghum, the train reaches its highest point and then it begins a brief descent into Darjeeling.

This train journey attracts steam enthusiasts from all over the world. There is also a special group of people who, in 1995,formed,an organisation to support the railway in its endeavour to survive and flourish, they became the Friends of the Darjeeling Himalayan Railway.

Travelling by steam has its pitfalls and one of the main ones is the constant need for water, which is not readily available in the hills. Another problem is the age of the engines and this means that they become unreliable. These disadvantages are the major reason why the 50 mile journey to Darjeeling can take eight or nine hours.

This train journey must be one of the slowest in the world but it is also one of the cheapest, 20 rupees (about 30p) for the trip which gives the traveller some of the most spectacular views. As well as rail and steam enthusiasts the railway must try to attract other tourists. Darjeeling and the surrounding areas have lots of attractions to lure the tourists, these include:the sight of Kanchenjunga, the world's third highest mountain, the zoo which is mostly, like all zoos, except for the breeding colony where both red pandas and, most wonderfully, the snow leopards seem to flourish.

Darjeeling can also offer good luxury hotel accomodation at The Windamere and The Elgin.